They will not move with the wood, and the bond between wood fibers treated with them and any subsequent filler will be very poor compared to that between CPES and Epoxy fillers, either Fill-It or our Epoxy Adhesives such as Layup and Laminating adhesive. Their performance is marginal compared to two part epoxies, and they are primarily manufactured to meet a very low price point. they are unstable in long term exposure to moisture, do not bond particularly well to the fibers of the wood. One part wood hardeners are typically made of an acrylic compound dissolved in a solvent. Why can’t I use cheaper one part hardeners? The penetrating ability of CPES is second to none, and it is unheard of for rot to return to wood that has been treated with CPES. CPES converts the cellulose in the wood to an epoxy-cellulose composite which returns strength and hardness to the wood, and strongly resists further attack by rot fungi or bacteria. CPES is absorbed by capillary action along the porosity which dry rot fungus creates within the wood, until all the affected areas are totally impregnated with the epoxy resin. Use of the product on rotten wood will leave the rotten areas of the timber impregnated with a flexible yet durable epoxy resin which will effectively consolidate and harden rotted wood, leaving it with a tough surface that makes it far more resistant to damage with everyday knocks. This is the Resin we used on several boat projects with very good results.Smiths CPES™ is the perfect product to harden rotted wood. So, our repairs are best done using epoxy resin. Lastly, I will tell you we found that Polyester Resin does not stick to epoxy very well. So be sure to mix you epoxy exactly has the instructions state. But the real goal is not to put yourself in a place where you need to remove it. That was when I founder that white vinegar helps to remove some uncured a epoxy. When I added too much hardener, rather than harden quickly, it didn’t hearten at all. When you mix epoxy, you must mix exactly as the instructions say. I thought like a lot of men do, that if ½ C was good than a little more would make it harden faster. Example, one cup of resin would require ½ cup of hardener. This means that for each one part of resin you would add ½ part of hardener. Some require equal amounts of resin and hardener and some require a lesser amount of hardware to the resin that supplied. I tell you this because neither will be completely full but the combination of the two makes 1 gallon of epoxy.Īll epoxy mixes are different. So, if you order one gallon you will get two one-gallon jugs. For larger amounts the supplier ships the epoxy in gallon jugs. It is what we have used on several projects and found it to be very good product. There are other epoxies that you can purchase and Sc110 Marine Epoxy is one of them. West Marine not only has great epoxy they also have additives that you can put in to thicken it and make fillers and such like. Without a doubt the number one favored epoxy is West Marine Systembrand. Many epoxies are for tabletops and I would not use that in laying up fiberglass on a boat. When looking to purchase epoxy be sure to get marine resin. It is very strong and sticks stubbornly to wood surfaces. We found that epoxy is much easier to use. So, we have used epoxy on all our other projects. In later projects we found the price of a epoxy had come down quite a bit. This did stop the stick surface but left a wax residue that had to be removed before we could apply paint. We then put a coat of finishing resin on the boat, which was hard to do over the sticky resin. That made it very hard to sand and even coating again. This type of polyester resin had no wax and when we finished laying the fiberglass on the boat it remained very tacky. The first polyester resin that we used was a lay-up polyester. We also found that polyester resin was harder to use the epoxy. We found that polyester resin did a very good job of sealing our boat. At that time epoxy was a lot more expensive. The reason for this was the cost factor between polyester and epoxy. The first boat that we build had polyester resin over fiberglass cloth. The end result, if properly constructed, is a lighter boat but just as strong or stronger than a factory boat. The technical term for this is Cold Molded. Most wooden boats are covered with some sort of fiberglass resin and fiberglass cloth. I might also add that the weight of the structure is a lot greater than wooden boats. When removed they have a sturdy structure with a glossy Gel Coat finish. Some companies hand lay the fiberglass soaked with resin instead of the spray method. After this they spray a chopped fiberglass polyester resin mixture inside the mold. The manufacture has a mold that they coat with a hard-glossy film called Gel Coat. Most production boats a constructed with polyester resin. Basically, there are only two types of fiberglass resin.
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